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Tuesday, 1 November 2011

Judging colour temperature Part II


For this part of the exercise I have changed the white balance settings for each subject . All photographs were taken in aperture priority on a 50mm Prime lens at f1.8. There has been no adjustments they are straight copies from the RAW in camera files.


 
Midday sunshine
 
Graham Baker Photography - London & KentAuto
1/4000 sec
Colour Temp 4850K
Graham Baker Photography - London & KentDaylight
1/3000 sec
Colour Temp 5250K
Graham Baker Photography - London & KentShade
1/3000 sec
Colour Temp 7100K
Graham Baker Photography - London & KentCloudy
1/3000 sec
Colour Temp 6050K
Graham Baker Photography - London & KentTungsten
1/3000 sec
Colour Temp 3200K
Graham Baker Photography - London & KentFluorescent
1/3000 sec
Colour Temp 4000K

There was little difference between the auto mode may have given more neutral tones in this case however I preferred the Daylight setting colour temperature out of the first 3 as the shade setting; although warmer, which can be good for people it was just a little too warm for my taste.

Midday in the shade

White Balance Auto in ShadeAuto
1/750 sec
Colour Temp 5050K
White Balance Daylight in ShadeDaylight
1/750 sec
Colour Temp 5250K
White Balance Shade in ShadeShade
1/750 sec
Colour Temp 7100K
White Balance Cloudy in ShadeCloudy
1/750 sec
Colour Temp 6050K
White Balance Tungsten in ShadeTungsten
1/750 sec
Colour Temp 3200K
Graham Baker - Photographer London & KentFluorescent
1/750 sec
Colour Temp 4000K

Evening Sunset

Graham Baker Photography - London & KentAuto
1/500 sec
Colour Temp 5050K
Graham Baker Photography - London & Kent
Flickr Tags:
Daylight
1/350 sec
Colour Temp 5250K
Graham Baker Photography - London & KentShade
1/500 sec
Colour Temp 7100K
Graham Baker Photography - London & KentCloudy
1/500 sec
Colour Temp 6050K
Graham Baker Photography - London & KentTungsten
1/500 sec
Colour Temp 3200K
Graham Baker Photography - London & KentFluorescent
1/750 sec
Colour Temp 4000K

For me the daylight setting gave the best results (for my taste) and although the Auto mode gave more accurate tones it was inconsistent with the changing light; far better to manually set this for accuracy (maybe using a grey card) then adjusting according to taste and result you as the photographer are looking for. For example the fluorescent setting has quite dramatic change in colour in the daylight but this maybe an effect that is needed for what you are trying to create.


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